BRIEF TANK HISTORY:
The Panzerkampfwagen IV (Pz.Kpfw. IV) commonly known as the Panzer IV was a medium tank developed in Nazi Germany in the late 1930s and used extensively during the Second World War.Read the rest of the article on wikipedia.
Designed as an infantry-support tank, the Panzer IV was not originally intended to engage enemy armor—that function was performed by the lighter Panzer III. However, with the flaws of pre-war doctrine becoming apparent and in the face of Soviet T-34 tanks, the Panzer IV soon assumed the tank-fighting role of its increasingly obsolete cousin. The most widely manufactured and deployed German tank of the Second World War, the Panzer IV was used as the base for many other fighting vehicles, including the Sturmgeschütz IV assault gun, Jagdpanzer IV tank destroyer, the Wirbelwind self-propelled anti-aircraft weapon, and the Brummbär self-propelled gun.
Robust and reliable, it saw service in all combat theaters involving Germany and has the distinction of being the only German tank to remain in continuous production throughout the war, with over 8,800 produced between 1936 and 1945. Upgrades and design modifications, often made in response to the appearance of new Allied tanks, extended its service life. Generally these involved increasing the Panzer IV’s armor protection or upgrading its weapons, although during the last months of the war with Germany’s pressing need for rapid replacement of losses, design changes also included retrograde measures to simplify and speed manufacture.
The Panzer IV was the most widely exported tank in German service, with around 300 sold to partners such as, Finland, Romania, Spain and Bulgaria. After the war, France and Spain sold dozens of Panzer IVs to Syria, where they saw combat in the 1967 Six-Day War.
PRODUCTS USED IN THIS VIDEO GUIDE:
PANZER IV from DRAGON
Again, DRAGON did not disappoint. In the box you will find a beautiful kit with lots of parts and lots of detail. All parts were engineered well and fitted together easily. There was no need for a gap filler.
FRUILMODEL TANK TRACKS
Although the Panzer kit comes with the Dragon ‘Magic’ Tracks (individual plastic links which you have to glue together), I have decided to give it a miss and try Fruilmodels tracks instead. I am happy with that decision. Because Fruilmodel tank tracks are heavy (made from aluminium alloy), they behave just like the real tracks. When installed on the tank, they sag beautifully – just like in the real life. I mentioned this in the video – the down side is the cost. They are a bit expensive!
AK-086 DARK STEEL PIGMENT
Perfect for giving your model that metallic shine. To apply, use a cotton bud or even your finger. In the past, to create shiny edges, I used a piece of a graphite block. I find this steel pigment better since the end result is more shiny. It really brings your model to life by simulating worn and polished steel surfaces.
You can get this turpentine from your local craft store. Fairly inexpensive and will last you for a long time. Just be careful when applying it to your model, make sure that your model is covered with a layer of paint first. If turpentine gets in contact with un-painted kit plastic, it tends to make plastic brittle. So brittle that the parts of your kit might snap off even from the slightest touch. As long as you protect the plastic with a layer of paint, you are safe.
Again, you can get those from your local craft store. I would not bother with getting the whole paint set. Just 3 paints would do: BLACK, WHITE and DARK BROWN.
VALLEJO SATIN VARNISH
Very happy with it! When mixed with acrylic thinner and airbrushed on, it protected the model BUT without altering the appearance. This is the first time I have used this product and will definitely use it again.
TAMIYA paints are very good when it comes to airbrushing. For this build you only need DARK YELLOW XF-60, WHITE XF-2, BLACK XF-01, NATO GREEN XF-67 and EARTH XF-52. Although the are sold and labeled as acrylics, they are actually lacquer paints but can be thinned with lacquer or acrylic thinners.
GAIANOTES ACRYLIC THINNER
I normaly use TAMIYA acrylic thinner (X-20A), but this time, just to try something new, I used GAIANOTES acrylic thinner. Both TAMIYA and GAIANOTES acrylic thinners work well. I do not have a preference between the two.
AK INTERACTIVE PAINTS
Well done AK! AK’s passion for modelling is clearly demonstrated in their wash, streaks and filter range. All colors are simply superb and manufactured in the perfect shade and tone. The ones used in this video guide are: STREAKING GRIME AK-012, RUST STREAKS AK-013, LIGHT RUST WASH AK-046, EARTH EFFECTS AK-017, DARK MUD AK-023, AK WORN EFFECTS ACRYLIC FLUID.
Vallejo paints (the ones with the white cap) are designed to be paint brushed and are of very good quality. To dilute simply use water. The ones used in this video guide are WHITE , BLACK, BROWN and TANN.
CITADEL ‘Leadbelcher’ ACRYLIC PAINT
The CITADEL brand is mostly targeting WARHAMMER market and therefore the silly name. However the CITADEL acrylic paints are excellent and you should definitely have some of their paints in your arsenal. To dilute just use water.
MIG pigments come in wide range of colors and tones. Each pigment is labeled with a descriptive name so that you can easily decide which one to use. The ones used in this video are BEACH SAND, CONCRETE,GULF WAR SAND, EUROPE DUST, DARK MUD and BLACK SMOKE.
MIG ACRYLIC RESIN
Use this resin to make the mud mixture. Like a glue, it binds sand, plaster powder and pigment so that the mixture can stick to your model.
MIG OIL AND GREASE MIXTURE
Use this mixture to create oil and grease stains. ALWAYS DILUTE WITH WHITE SPIRIT! If you apply it without the white spirit it looks way too glossy. Apply this mixture in more than one layer. Mix with different thinner ratios to create old vs new stains effect.
MIG PIGMENt FIXER
This product is very handy when it comes to binding the pigment into the tank tracks. One downside is that it tends to darken the pigment once dry. Use ligheter color pigment when applying this fixer.
Use this filter to blend dark yellow base and camouflage green color. Apply evenly and avoid saturating your model. The one used in this video is P 242 FILTER for tritonal camo.
LIFECOLOR RUST SET
This set contains 3 rust pigments and 3 acrylic colors. The acrylic colors and pigments tones are identical: LIGHT, DARK and STANDARD RUST. Tones are nicely manufactured to create perfect rusty look!
AK PAINT CHIPPING COLOR
When applying, make sure that the surface is matt so that the paint can stick easily to your model. For the best paint chipping result, shake the bottle well well but do not mix with water – otherwise the paint will be too runny!
LAST FEW WORDS…
Well, again life has been very busy in my household during the last 3-4 months. At the end of February 2013 I have actually taken a 3 weeks long service leave from my work so that I can start and complete this video guide. I thought – surely 3 weeks of uninterrupted work will get me through. I tried hard and I put many 10 hours days BUT I just did not make it. At the end of the third week, I had recorded all the footage but I was only approx. 20% through editing. Once I was back to work, the things just slowed down, wife, kids and the rest. Now is mid May and I am finally doing finished touches to this video guide. There is a perfectionist part of me which at this stage I really need to ignore otherwise this video will never get out.
As for you Robert, good luck with your modeling! I really hope you get a lot from watching this video.If you have any comments, questions or feedback, please contact me at [email protected]. Please let me know what you think. I am looking forward to hear from you.
Scale Model Guide